Aari Hand Work

Aari work is a type of embroidery which is done on a stretched fabric and stitching the design with a long needle which has a hook in the end. The needle is named as Aari, from which the embroidery work derives its name as Aari work. This work consists of beads, stones, golden and silver threads which gives a royal richness to the design. Aari work is known for its elegant thread work that enhances the gravity of hand embroidery. Aari work has marked its existence from 12th century i.e. from the time of Mughal ruling. With time the work has spread to places like Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat and other places who added their touch of traditional design and recognized the specialty of the work. Sliding from the families of the ruling kings and the queens, today, the craft can be seen on any teenager’s cap or top, with the traditional gear of various states, like sarees, chaniya cholis of a bride or on festive attire.

Tools and Raw Materials

The needle used for aari work comes in only one size and they are available in local market. Colourful threads are used according to the design and patterns. Other tools and materials used in this work are:

• Scissors used to cut the threads.

• Aari needle used to stitch the design patterns.

• Different types and colours of beads and stones are used to embellish the embroidered design.

• Fabric gum is used to fix the stones on fabric.

• Zari, gold or silver thread is used to stitch the design pattern.

• Various shades of embroidery thread are used to embroider the design.

• Bright check is a two part thread containing of a central core wire, with a coiled wire around it.

• Buillion or purl thread is also a type of wire wound into a tight coil that looks like a strand of gold pearls.

Picture: Nidhi fashions

Making Process

Initially the required type of fabric is stretched and tied to a frame to remove loose folds. With the help of a lead pencil or chalk powder the design is traced on the fabric. After tracing combination of color threads or golden thread is embroidered along the traced design. Aari needle is pushed through the fabric and thread from the reverse side is hooked in the needle and pulled out from the upper side. Needle is again inserted in the fabric a little distance away from the previous pierce and pulls the thread out locking the previous stitch. This process is continued till the required pattern is formed on the fabric.

Designs are embellished with golden or silver threads known as zari and are embroidered with stones and beads which gives the fabric an elegant rich look. Once the design is embroidered the fabric is tied to the reverse side and fabric glue is applied on the design to strengthen the stitch so that the threads don’t get loose and come out.

Picture: Aham Designer Boutique

Products

Hand embroidery is well known all over India. This art is practiced almost every part of India with their own traditional designs touch. Aari work is one of the most famous and well known arts of India from way back of time. The product made depicts royal look and richness of hand work. The design themes are flowers, animal and bird figure like elephants and peacock design. Their work specialty is Kalamkari patch work, which is done on all type of attire. The designs are embroidered on blouse pieces, dress materials, sarees and Churidar. The work is mainly done by women artisans; lately even men have joined the work.